September 9, 2007

This is how it all begins.  The
full-size patterns are laid out and
drawn onto the plywood.    I did
this by poking holes through the
pattern and then connecting the
dots.  Do not cut out the
patterns.  That's not the way
they're designed.  Plywood
pieces are cut out with a jig saw.
I tried to stay as close to spec as
possible to avoid the
exponential ripple effect of minor
design changes.
September 9, 2007

This is most of the hull pieces
and the foredeck  cut out and
epoxied with penetrating epoxy.  
Penetrating epoxy is nothing
more than regular epoxy
diluted with solvent.
 I mix 2/3
epoxy and 1/3 XYLOL.  

I cut everything at once so I
could put the tools away for a

This represents about 6 hours
of work - not including the epoxy
cure time.
Sept 23, 2007

The pieces I previously cut out
and epoxied are attached to the
bottom of the boat.  They are
epoxied  and held in place with
bronze screws (from the
underside) until the epoxy cures.  
Here I modified the plans by
moving the aft piece forward 2
inches (my backside needs the
extra room on the seat).

Because various pieces are
attached from the bottom, it is
best to build a Tubby Tug on
2x4's rather than on a work table
to allow access to the underside.
2 hours work - 8 hrs total
Sept 23, 2007

The bottom of the hull is stitched
together with 14 gauge copper
wire.  The wire was "donated"  
leftover 14-2 wire from my
father's home renovation.  

2 hours - 10 hours total
September 23, 2007

It is beginning to look like a boat!

The bottom part of the hull is
stitched together in this picture.

10 hours work with the
Stitch-n-Glue method gets you
MUCH further that the Lil Woody
method of wingin' it.
October 4, 2007

This is the inside of the bow
following gluing with epoxy
thickened with silica.

I use the back side of a  
tablespoon to apply the epoxy.  It
gives a nice curve that can be
varied with the angle of the
spoon.  Also, the handle makes
it easier to... handle.

I don't think a tablespoon comes
with an epoxy application kit.  But
it works well for me.

A good rule of thumbs when
mixing epoxy and silica is that if
you wonder if it is thick enough -
it isn't.  It will run and sag if not
thick enough.

One website said to mix the
epoxy and silica to a consistency
of peanut butter.  BUT, is that
warm peanut butter or peanut
butter that you just pulled out of
the fridge?  Is it the consistency
of Skippy or Peter Pan?

I say, just make it thick!
October 6, 2007

You can't really see it but the
sides are glassed with 3 inch
fiberglass tape.  

If you look closely, you can see
the copper wire "stitches"
through the epoxy/silica.

Running Total:  14 hrs
October 6, 2007

Gluing up the support for the
foredeck.  I clamp it, then screw it
together with bronze screws, then
remove the clamps.  The foredeck
should be strong enough for a 4
year-old to stand on if she wants
to and her dad to stand on if he
needs to.

The screws will be covered with
fiberglass tape when the upper
bulwark is attached.  You'll never
be able to tell they are there if I do
it right!
October 6, 2007

This is the end of the day.  The
foredeck supports are complete
from the bow to the seat.

The seats are boxed in.  These
are water tight compartments
allowing for flotation in the
"unlikely event of an emergency".

Under the seats could be made to
be storage areas but I would
rather have the safety of the
flotation compartments.

Running total:  17 hours
Build Page 1