SQUIRT  DECK - PAGE  2
To get a mirror smooth finish, the epoxy needs to be sanded smooth.  I applied 3 coats of
epoxy with a light sanding in between applications.   Here you see three coats sanded
smooth.
I chose to paint the stripes rather than the old-school way of caulking the seams.  My
seams are filled with epoxy thickened with mahogany wood flour.  This is easy to do
because when the deck boards are screwed down, the epoxy squeezes into the seams.  I
simply filled the seams with the same epoxy mixture.  This leaves dark brown stripes but I
want cream colored stripes.  Hence the paint.
In order to get a
straight tape line, it is
better to stand back
and lay the tape down
as you eye the line.  
This will result in a
much straighter line
than following the
tape as you go.

A really talented
pin-striper showed me
this.
Below I am making
sure the tape edges
are adhered well to
avoid paint seeping
under the tape and
creating a messy line.
I applied the paint with a high quality brush.
I have found it is
best to pull up the
tape while the paint
is still tacky and
before it fully
cures.  Try to
maintain a 45
degree angle when
pulling up the tape.
The first coat of
varnish is applied
here.  I would guess I
will have 8-10 coats
before I finally finish
the deck.  Then wet
sanding an polishing.
Here's some free advice that is
actually worth something.

Check your compatibility when
varnishing or clear-coating
over other paints.  Here you
can see what happens.  The
varnish pulled up the stripes.

So, I sanded it all off and
re-striped it with vinyl striping
and epoxied over the stripes.

The result is nice - just more
work
And here we have the re-do.  There are still more finish work to come.  I will be using a
two-part polyurethane marine grade clear coat rather than varnish.  It will hold up longer,
apply quicker and easier, and look great.  The only thing you lose is that really cool smell
of varnish.