Squirt Motor Installation
First I made a template
out of inexpensive luan.  It
is the exact width between
the battens, from he  
transom to about 4 inches
forward of the engine.  
The battens will have
laminations of Douglas Fir
from Frame #2 to the
transom to effectively
make them stringers.

Then the hull is trimmed to
the size of the template.
The SeaDoo hull is a v-bottom while the Squirt
becomes a near flat-bottom at the transom.  
Therefore, wedges need to be made to fit the
SeaDoo to the Squirt.  

Here is the first lamination of Douglas Fir attached
with thickened epoxy and stainless screws.

There are many different ways to accomplish the PWC driveline installation.  

Some builders I have seen designed the installation prior to the install complete with billet
aluminum mounting plates, custom designed stringers, custom pump housing, etc.  That's a lot
of custom work.

I went a different route.

The alignment of the SeaDoo Motor to the pump shaft is crucial.  Even being slightly off will
cause vibration and consequent premature wear and failure.  So I chose to keep the entire
driveline in tact and to graft it to the hull in one piece.

This might not be as attractive once the hatch is opened.  But once the entire bilge is painted,
it will be a minor distraction.  The ease of install will certainly make up for the slightly less than
perfect aesthetics.

The following is how I accomplished the install.
I needed to laminate a second layer of Douglas
Fir.  Had 8/4 DF been available, the laminations
would not be necessary.

The front was boxed in with Douglas Fir.

I left the SeaDoo hull 1/4" lower than the Douglas
Fir wedges so the it would sit flush with the bottom
of the hull following fairing.
I cannot think of anything more nerve-racking
than cutting a big hole in a freshly completed hull.

As you can see, I had to cut away the transom
planking too.  There was absolutely no way to
install the driveline with it in place.

Even though there was a big hole and no upper
transom frame, I was impressed with how stiff the
hull remained.  This is a tribute to the excellent
design of the Glen-L boats.
I epoxied the entire interior of the hull with CPES
prior to installing the motor.  It is much easier to
do epoxy at this stage because it is easier to get
to everything.

The motor is in!  

Even better, it fit exactly between the battens on
the first try.

It is set in thickened epoxy.