Squirt Hull Painting
The fiberglass is applied.

The fiberglass is
positioned on the hull
and then wetted with

I have applied epoxy
through fiberglass with
brushes, foam rollers,
plastic spreaders, and
the foam roller
squeegies from West

What I found is that
there is a reason those
squeegie rollers are so
expensive at West -
because they are worth

The fairing compound is applied with a
combination of various sizes of plastic
spreaders.  The 8" wide one seemed to work
the best.

I use the Aeromarine epoxy and the West
System Microlight #410 filler.  It is the easiest
I have found to sand and feather.

This gives an idea of how uneven the fairing
compound is immediately following
application.  I could have probably smoothed
it out more but It all has to be sanded anyway.

I make sure I apply enough that I won't sand
through to the fiberglass when I begin fairing.

And the hull is faired and primed.

I told a fellow hobbyist how much I hated
sanding.  He informed me it was because I
didn't have a decent sander in my entire
shop.  So I went out and bought three new

Well he was wrong.  I still hate sanding.  Only
with my new sanders, it just doesn't take as

Moral:  Buy the best tools you can afford.

Don't let this picture fool you.  It looks shiny
and smooth but the imperfections are there.

I expect as much when I paint outside of a
dedicated paint booth.  There is just too
much dust in my workshop to lay down
perfect paint on the first application.   You
can still have a great finish however.  It just
takes more work.

What I will do is wet sand and polish the
bottom of the hull and then flip it to finish the
interior.   I will wait to polish the sides
because I will be adding painted coves on
the sides of the hull.  Also, there will most
likely need to be some touch up painting
around where the deck and the sides attach.
 I might as well wait until the very last step to
sand and polish the sides and deck.
My 2 cents...

As of mid-January 2009 I have color-sanded and polished the bottom of the hull and flipped it.  I have decided on
future builds I will only paint the bottom of the hull from the waterline down prior to flipping it.  I have a good bit of
touch-up to do on the hull sides and will have a good bit more where the deck meets the sides.  Sooo....
I might as well wait until it is flipped to paint from the waterline up and avoid all the necessary touch-up work.
I say this now even though it is not an issue on this build.  If you are applying fiberglass to wood
that you want to leave bright (natural), it is imperative to get it right the first time.  I mentioned I
use the rollers.  This is because I have had issues with plastic squeegees.  If you don't wet the
fiberglass thoroughly on the first pass you can get a cloudy weave.  This is because going over
the fiberglass with a squeegee over and over again frays the weave.  Once you have it the
haze and cloudiness, there is no way to get it out.  Practice on scrap if you want a bright finish
or buy the expensive epoxy roller applicators.  Just some free advice worth at least twice what
you paid for it...