Squirt Planking
The port and starboard side planking have been installed.  Overlap the plywood at the bow and do not try to angle
them together.  

Make sure you read the plans and learn how to make a transition joint.  I did not read that section, faired the
planking to the chine, and will have some additional work down the line.

The battens you see are Douglas Fir.  The keel is White Oak.
I went ahead and installed the transom planking
while I had easy access for clamping.  I was
holding off installing this due to upcoming
modifications that are not in the plans.  We'll see
if I made the right decision.

You can see the butt-block joint in the side
planking.  It is between the 1st and 2nd frames.  
Make sure you measure so that you do not wind
up with this joint on top of a frame.
The planks are held in place with screws and
small pieces of plywood where the bends were
more pronounced.  With the bottom planking only
being 1/4" you can easily drill a screw all the way
through the wood.  Once the epoxy is cured, the
clamp blocks come off.

You might notice thickened epoxy on the port
side.  This is due to a poor/nonexistent transition

Also, there is a wide gap at the stern of the boat.  
This is because if I left a gap, I could use plywood
I had already cut without having to cut up a new
board.  At $40 per sheet, this is important.

When I install the inboard motor, this will be cut
away anyway.

The bottom planking is now trimmed.  I have
sanded the mating surfaces of the bottom and
side planking.  

At the bow, my poor/nonexistent transition joint
required a buildup of thickened epoxy on the
inside of the hull and additional fairing on the
outside of the hull.

I did the minor fairing on the outside of the hull
prior to fiberglassing because I was worried I might
not get a good bond due to irregularities and
imperfections in the surface.
I was not expected the slight concave aspect of
the hull at the bow.  You learn something new
every day...
I coated the entire exterior with CPES (I've
mentioned this before but CPES is just regular
epoxy diluted with solvent.)  The theory is that the
solvent allows the epoxy to soak into the wood
more thoroughly.  Slower evaporating solvents will
help with this.  

I have found that 1/3 Xylol and 2/3 epoxy gives me
a good penetration.

Seal the hull with CPES before fiberglassing.  This
way you insure that your fiberglass will not become
starved of epoxy because it has penetrated the
wood.  CPES first will make sure there is enough
epoxy left in the weave of the fiberglass.

I am not fiberglassing at this stage because I want
to do this after I install the motor.  

This requires flipping the hull, installing the motor,
then flipping the hull again for fairing and painting,
the flipping it back again for completion of the

I sure am glad it is only an 11' boat!